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This marks squash season and my favourite season, especially for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today's Northwest Indian stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the layers of grains and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, comforting, single-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the vegetable curry element ahead of time and assemble all components on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and sauté for a minute. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, place lid and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to make sure no sticking to the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and salt. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the biryani, place a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the cooked grains. Add half the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Top with the remaining vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining rice. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the grains. Remove of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with raita and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "pickling style" refers to seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. The blend also features in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a minute, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pot, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the heat, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.