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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.